2012年6月28日星期四

Paes disheartened by India's Olympic tennis row

Leander Paes disheartened by controversy surrounding India's team selection for London Games

WIMBLEDON, England (AP) — Leander Paes insists the "disheartening" selection row engulfing India's tennis team for the London Games hasn't dampened his enthusiasm about appearing in his sixth Olympics.

The 39-year-old Paes will play mixed doubles at the Olympics with India's top women's player, Sania Mirza, who on Tuesday said she was being used as "bait" to pacify Paes after he was asked to be paired with little-known Vishnu Vardhan in the men's doubles.

Mahesh Bhupathi and Rohan Bopanna will be India's other pairing in the men's doubles, after they each refused to partner with Paes in London because they have been playing together on the ATP circuit.

"I am here to play sport and not politics," Paes said on Thursday, after winning his first-round match in the men's doubles at Wimbledon with regular Czech partner Radek Stepanek. "Unfortunately, I see the games being played within games, and as much as that is very disheartening, I am looking forward to playing my sixth Olympics for my country as I have played for 22 years for the people and the flag."

Before his partnership with Mirza was confirmed, Paes had threatened to withdraw himself from contention following the decision to pair him with Vardhan.

"I am looking forward to representing my country with the teams that the All India Tennis Association have selected," Paes said.

Mirza won this year's French Open with Bhupathi and said in a statement that she was disillusioned after being "put up as bait to try and pacify one of the disgruntled stalwarts of Indian tennis," in a direct reference to Paes.

Paes refused to comment on either Mirza's statement or whether their relationship had been tarnished.

"Every Olympics has some nonsense coming in with it," Paes said. "I know how much hard work goes into what I do. (Either) people choose to respect it, which I'm very lucky that India does, (or) people choose to disrespect. That's their problem not mine."

A seven-time Grand Slam winner in men's doubles, Paes also won a bronze medal in singles in the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta.

Paes said Vardhan will be his 91st different partner in men's doubles and acknowledged that going deep in the Olympic tournament with a player who is currently ranked No. 300 in the world in singles is a tall order.

"I don't even know if he has grass-court shoes," Paes said. "So it's a bit of a tough one.

"But he's a really good kid, I'm happy to play with him. Whatever the obstacles are, which I see are going to be many — he's never been to Wimbledon before — whatever I can do as an experienced professional athlete to help my partners out, I do."

India is sending its largest ever tennis contingent to the Olympics with seven players. Apart from the two men's doubles pairs and the mixed doubles, Mirza and Rushmi Chakravarthi will play in women's doubles, while Somdev Devvarman will play in men's singles after receiving a wild card.

Often the silhouette is relaxed

The Sea, The Sea. This season the journey of the Vuitton traveller, always one both literal and metaphorical, takes to the water.

“Diana Vreeland said that water was ‘God’s tranquilizer.’ She also said she thought the idea of the freedom of surfing was wonderful. That was one of the starting points for the collection,” explains Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton Men’s Style Director, working under the Artistic Direction of Marc Jacobs. “I was also looking at different kinds of men I related to this style – the Vuitton customer is not just one kind of man – and that spanned people from Yves Carcelle with his love of yachting to the idea of sailing clothes worn by men in both a street and pop sense.”

In this way, what can be thought of as the traditional nautical theme – that classic cliché of fashion – is given new meaning and life by being playfully put through the filter of pop culture; made sporting through technical sailing wear; made adventurous through the myth of the high seas; made rebellious through the language of surf culture; made languid and insouciant through a Southern French casual finesse. Ultimately all is made sophisticated in the collection by a thoroughly thoughtful and qualitative approach to each aspect.

Often the silhouette is relaxed, easy and utilitarian yet still with a concentration on lightness and suppleness of fabrication (even with extra soft crocodile). There is particular innovation in the outerwear displayed through contemporary techniques such as laser cutting that give garments a particular fluidity. It is contrasted with the tailored silhouettes utilizing techniques that still stress lightness in construction together with a fluidity of line. A sense of freedom and summer is one that permeates the collection in its entirety and is also displayed in its simple colour palette concentrating on navy and white with flashes of yellow and fluorescents. An element of holiday and beach debris playfully litters the accesorisation of the collection; ring-pulls made precious in gold, silver and mother-of-pearl with coral, anchor and seahorse motifs adding another playful twist.

2012年6月27日星期三

Adidas and their 'shackle' sneakers

I was browsing the Internet, and an ad came up about some new shoes.

Usually, at the site of new shoes, I get excited, and I sometimes tend to overspend on really cute shoes, but this was an exception that made me very angry.

Adidas sneakers have been accused of promoting racism with their new purple and yellow “shackle” sneakers that were expected to hit stores in August. The tennis shoes that have bright-yellow shackles on the ankles were set to run $350.

These shoes caused uproar when Adidas started promoting the sneakers on their official Facebook page last week.

"Tighten up your style with the JS Roundhouse Mids, dropping in August. Got a sneaker game so hot, you lock your kicks to your ankles,” is what the quote read.

As I sat and read the quote at least 30 times, I still could not understand why someone would let this “new” sneaker style hit the streets.

I began to do some research and saw that the photo of the shoe had over 36,000 likes. However, more than half of the comments were people saying angry and disparaging things about the shoes.

I later found out that Jeremy Scott is the designer of the shoe, and he has been known for his unusual designs in fashion.

Now, I am never one to play the racism card, because I was not taught to judge anyone based on color, religion or race. However, I am not OK with this shoe being sold.

A few days went by, and the photo went viral, and more and more people began commenting on the design of the shoes.

It wasn’t until late Monday evening that Adidas stated, “Since the shoe debuted on our Facebook page ahead of its market release in August, Adidas has received both favorable and critical feedback. We apologize if people are offended by the design, and we are withdrawing our plans to make them available in the marketplace."

2012年6月26日星期二

Made by an accurate activity sports shoe company

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2012年6月25日星期一

DC Shoes Unilite Trainer

Since action sports began rising more rapidly in popularity around the world, shoe company giant DC Shoes has ruled the streets. DC Shoe Co. has been around since 1994 and has been developing state-of-the-art shoes for all action sports enthusiasts relying on its athletes' opinions and expertise to help get them there.

Keeping up with and staying one step ahead of the competition [no pun intended] has always been crucial with DC Shoes, and that is why the addition of the Unilite Trainer shoe, a true athletic shoe, proves once again why DC Shoe Co. is a giant on the streets. The elite DC Shoes FMX team relies on Robbie Maddison, Nate Adams, Travis Pastrana and Andre Villa to represent its core innovative ideals.

WHAT IT IS:
Because going to the gym in your skate shoes to get in a good workout is a thing of the past [unless, of course that is your style] the new Unilite Trainer shoe embodies everything a true athletic cross-trainer shoe should be.

Made by an authentic action sports shoe company, the shoe has the stylish, sleek, functioning appeal needed to be approved by the ever-so-critical and cool-guy standards that have founded action sports. It's lightweight, comfortable and most of all breathable for those intense workouts.

The $85 shoe features a molded ortholite insole and EVA strobel board for exceptional step and comfort. It also has a seamless design for ultimate flexibility, built-in inner sock for those who prefer not to wear one and vented mesh for breathability. Down the underside it has faceted midsoles, embedded arches, strategically placed rubber grip designed for ultimate comfort and durability. Put simply this shoe rocks and has 100 percent functioning capabilities of a conventional cross-trainer shoe.

WHY IT RULES:
The Unilite Trainer shoe is the ultimate action sports trainer shoe out there on the market. With health and fitness becoming so popular in North America amongst everyone sports- and nonsports-wise -- it proves once again why DC is staying one step ahead of the competition.

And let's face it, action sports has been founded on the principles of being cool or different, independent. So from the time of its inception, wearing shoes that look cool but have no support ruled the streets. This shoe rules because it delivers the most ankle support while maintaining the cool-looking factor.

WHERE TO FIND IT:
The Unilite Trainer shoe and the entire DC Shoe line for that matter -- is making its way into the shoe market worldwide. Chances are your local skate shop or sporting goods store has them in stock or you can always find them by shopping online. For you Trey Canard and Travis Pastrana fans, they have their own signature shoe as well as standard colors in black, white, red and blue.

2012年6月24日星期日

The bottoms of her feet are like slabs of leather

DES MOINES, Iowa — An Iowa woman is running barefoot across the United States to raise money to provide shoes for needy children.

Rae Heim, 18, of Carroll, started her cross-country trek in Boston in April and hopes to reach Huntington Beach, Calif., in October.

The Des Moines Register caught up with her this week in Iowa as she crested a hill near Victor in 91-degree heat.

Heim stopped to talk but wasn't out of breath. She said she started running barefoot after breaking a toe last year and shedding her running shoes for comfort. Shoes now feel like dead weight to her, although she wore them through New Jersey, where broken glass and nails littered the highway, and dons them on gravel roads.

The bottoms of her feet are like slabs of leather. When they start burning in the heat, she puts on toe socks.

"We are born to run barefoot," Heim said.

She told the newspaper that she hated to run and even dreaded rounding the bases while playing softball.

"It was like a punishment," she said. But then Heim realized that people thought she couldn't run, and she set out to prove them wrong.

She entered road races and last summer met a middle-aged man who ran across America, which inspired her.

What started as a personal adventure has become a fundraiser for Soles4Souls, a charity that supplies shoes to needy kids.

"When I feel like quitting, I think of the $2,900 I have raised," Heim said. "That's 2,900 pairs of shoes."

There have been a few bumps during her trek.

After the first week of 40-plus mile days, she had a twisted ankle, painful Achilles tendon and sore knee. She sat on the side of the road, crying, and then called her mom.

"My parents taught us that you set your goals and don't give up," Heim said.

Now, she's averaging 20 miles a day. She carries her belongings in a backpack. Her mom watches her every move with a GPS and has friends set up along the route to check on her.

Heim said most of her journey has been pleasant.

"The kindness I've seen in people surprised me. You always hear all the wrong with the world," she said. "But I've seen nothing but good in the world."

2012年6月20日星期三

Buddy Holly's high school sneakers find a home at the Buddy Holly Center

After spending 22 years in another country, a pair of Converse high-top sneakers that once belonged to rock ’n’ roll legend Buddy Holly have returned to Lubbock.

The white Converse Chuck Taylor All-Star shoes, trimmed in red along the rubber soles, went on display this week at the Buddy Holly Center.

The initials B.H. were written in ink on the canvas above the outer heel of each shoe.

“For being more than 50 years old, they’re still in pretty good shape. The rubber is still supple,” said Jacqueline Bober, curator of the Buddy Holly Center.

Personnel at the center haven’t found a photo of Buddy wearing the shoes, but the sneakers are believed to have been worn by him during his late high school years, she said.

The Converse shoes replaced a pair of black Oxford shoes, size 11, in a display case. They appear to be about the same size, which leads Bober to think he owned them at a mature age.

The shoes were purchased by Toronto singer-songwriter Ken Blyth in a Sothebys’ auction in New York City in July, 1990, she said.

After owning them for more than two decades, Blyth sold them this spring to Civic Lubbock Inc., which made a permanent loan of them to the Buddy Holly Center, Bober said.

Blyth, 51, said in a telephone interview from his Canada home he decided to sell the shoes about a year ago.

“As much as I am a Buddy Holly nut, material items don’t add up to the music. (The shoes) were not as important as I thought they would be. I wanted them to go somewhere where they would be appreciated,” he said.

He received other offers to buy the shoes but turned them down, Blyth said.

“I truly felt they should go to the museum,” he said.

Blyth said he learned Buddy Holly items would be auctioned a year before the Sotheby auction when he was in Lubbock and visiting at the home of Buddy Holly’s older brother, Larry.

He went to the auction, hoping to make a spectacular addition to his guitar collection by winning Holly’s Fender Stratocaster guitar.

Although he was outbid on the guitar, he didn’t leave the auction empty-handed. He won the Converse sneakers, a sweater, a high school pin and a ring that had belonged to Buddy Holly.

He has sold the sweater and ring, he said.

Bober said she is happy to add the shoes to the items on display at the Buddy Holly Center.

“It feels like things are coming home. Pieces of the puzzle that was Buddy are coming back together,” she said.

She felt the same way in 2009, when Buddy’s bedroom furniture was acquired, she said.

Blyth has a band called Reminiscing, which plays Buddy Holly and Elvis Presley tribute songs with Blyth dressed and singing in the style of the late artists.

2012年6月19日星期二

EU bans exports of luxury goods to Syria

The European Union on Friday banned exports to Syria of luxury shoes, caviar and boats, as well as goods with possible military applications, in an effort to step up the pressure on President Bashar al-Assad's government and family.

The decision came as violence surges in Syria, despite an April 12 ceasefire negotiated by international mediator Kofi Annan and a range of sanctions by the European Union, United States and others against Damascus.

"In the current situation, the EU must keep up the pressure on the Syrian regime," EU foreign policy chief Catherine Ashton said in a statement.

"EU sanctions target those responsible for the appalling repression and violence against the civilian population. We have carefully calibrated today's decisions to avoid affecting the Syrian people."

The new EU sanctions are designed partly to target the family of the Syrian president, in particular his wife Asma al-Assad, who is said to have continued shopping for luxury products during the conflict.

Emails she exchanged with her husband, obtained by Britain's Guardian newspaper, showed they were buying jewels and expensive furniture during the violence, and that she liked Chanel dresses and Christian Louboutin shoes.

The EU ban, which will go into effect on June 17, includes shoes costing more than 600 euros ($760), as well as jewellery, gems and pearls.

But it excludes non-luxury cars and other lower-priced items in order that diplomats and other foreigners on missions to Syria would not be overly affected, one EU diplomat said.

The European Union also banned export of caviar, truffles, and cigars costing more than 10 euros per item; wines and spirits over 50 euros per litre; and luxury vehicles, planes and boats costing more than 25,000 euros.

Also banned for export were protection equipment, such as gas masks and protective suits; chemicals that may be used to make toxic chemical agents; and certain pathogens, such as certain viruses, bacteria and toxins.

So far, the EU has imposed asset freezes and visa bans on 128 people responsible for or associated with the violent repression against Syria's civilian population, and an asset freeze on 43 companies and other entities.

EU foreign ministers are scheduled to meet in Luxembourg on June 25, when they are likely to add four entities and one person to the sanctions list, an EU diplomat said.

The United Nations says more than 10,000 people have been killed by government forces, while Syria says at least 2,600 members of the military and security forces have been killed by what it calls foreign-backed "Islamist terrorists."

Russia and China, both permanent members of the U.N. Security Council with veto power, have blocked efforts by Western powers to condemn Assad or call for his removal.

2012年6月18日星期一

Adidas’ new ‘shackle’ shoes stir controversy

LOS ANGELES — Adidas and eccentric Beverly Hills designer Jeremy Scott are under fire for a new shoe design that critics say calls up painful images of slavery.

The shoes come with a set of plastic shackles, and a tag line on Adidas’ Facebook page strikes a playful tone: “Got a sneaker game so hot you lock your kicks to your ankles?”

But others aren’t laughing and have taken to social media to lament the design, due out in August.

“Our ancestors fought blood, sweat and tears just so fools can turn pain into an accessory?” went one post on the sneaker giant’s Facebook page. Another urged: “these should be taken off the market.”

And on Twitter: “any designer that’s nostalgic for slavery will Never have my support.”

Efforts to reach Scott were unsuccessful. But an Adidas representative defended the design in a statement to the Los Angeles Times: “The design ... is nothing more than the designer Jeremy Scott’s outrageous and unique take on fashion and has nothing to do with slavery.”

Not everyone is offended by the design, part of a whimsical line that also features sneakers accented with teddy bears, butterfly wings and belt buckles.

“It’s fashion. Just shoes. That’s all it is. And they are dope,” one person wrote on Adidas’ Facebook wall.

The controversy follows on the “heels” of Nike’s Black & Tan controversy earlier this year.

David M. Carter, head of the University of Southern California Sports Business Institute, told the Times that this controversy could potentially block the release of the Adidas shoe.

“As offensive as the shoe may be to many, ultimately, ‘distaste’ is in the eye of the shareholder as they will weigh in — if not determine — the appropriateness of this product. Public sentiment, pressure from advocacy groups, and media coverage will also contribute heavily to management’s decision to continue to market or pull the product.”

2012年6月17日星期日

Searching for the best shoe of summer

Somewhere between my favorite workhorse winter boots and the flip-flops I'll wear on my summer beach vacation is the shoe that would fill in the gaps. It would take me to work and through weekends, and out to dinner afterward.

But for all the time I spend staring at the floor of my closet, I still don't know which shoe that might be.

Maybe I don't own it yet. Yes, that must be it. It's a perfect excuse to go shoe shopping -- and what woman doesn't love that?!

Unfortunately, I've been on three retail excursions since then, and I'm still mostly alternating between some old tan ballet flats and a pair of brown cork wedge sandals. I've also had on espadrilles, woven-leather flat sandals and patent-leather peep-toes. Not the one-size-fits-all solution that I was hoping for -- and not the one-size-fits-all solution I feel like my dark brown riding boots give me half the year.

"Shoes are important to creating an image of yourself," says Los Angeles-based stylist Laurie Brucker. "Nothing makes you feel better than when you are wearing a fantastic pair of shoes."

I'm on the right path with neutral tan shoes, she advises, but there needs to be something to jazz them up: a bright contrast color, a print or some sort of embellishment.

That might seem counterintuitive, but, she says, that special detail is what a shoe needs to draw you to it. A boot's appeal is built-in: Think of all that beautiful leather, not to mention what it does to lengthen the wearer's silhouette.

But there are warm-weather options. She suggests a light beige patent leather pump, maybe with a peep-toe, as an almost surefire option for someone who dresses up for the office -- and then might be going out afterward. Any shoe that's a similar color to your skin tone should be particularly flattering, advises Brucker, part of Stacy London's Style for Hire network.

That one isn't going to take me to the sidelines of my children's soccer games or even a Saturday night party with my mostly casual crowd, however.

I am not the only one having this problem. Last week alone, at the very tail end of spring, I saw three people on a single day in their high-shaft leather winter boots. The boots looked lived in and loved, even if they appeared a little wrong against the sunny sky.

A cap-toe ballet flat with contrasting colors would provide a lot of mileage, Brucker explains, because it can be grounded in a neutral camel or black and then tipped with a pop of color or a flash of metal. A pointy-toe front is probably a little more fashion-forward and will live into the fall season and beyond, she says. (I'll be back in my boots by then.)

I took a spin through the Nordstrom shoe department armed with Brucker's advice, and I admired lots of things from Uggs thongs to Tory Burch open-toe ballet flats to Jimmy Choo platform wedges. All had their pluses, but they came with minuses: The thongs would make that clack-clack sound in the office; the flats were too similar to something I already own; and the Choos were out of my price range.

The popular flat platforms are too clunky for me and my pretty straightforward-but-not-quite-conservative look. But while they're a bona fide trend this year, I will note I saw them mostly on sale racks.

There was a pair of almost-winner Cole Haan-Nike Air wedge-heel sandals, but they were in black, and I wasn't sure if the dark ankle strap would work with enough of my lighter-hue summer wardrobe.

Jennifer Gosselin, senior vice president and general manager of online retailer Piperlime, later tells me that I probably was wise to be a little wary of black, especially if I'm wearing a lot of brightly colored bottoms.

"I tend to avoid black. Skin tone matters here, but I feel like black stands out on me and can make a sharp line," she says.

She doesn't worry about that as much with a brightly colored shoe -- perhaps orange, yellow or an ocean blue -- against a black bottom, especially if the shoe is fairly bare, like a simple leather thong.

But her first suggestion for a go-to shoe has a hint of shine to it. A sandal like the Sam Edelman Sophie sandal, with its metallic buckle and moderate 2-inch wedge heel, easily transitions from weekday to weekend, she says.

"The height makes it a little more polished, but it's not quite as dressed up as a pump or high heel," Gosselin says. "You could wear it all day."

Generally, she'd stick to a modern, minimalist style, but, again, she also mentions the one element of pizzazz to keep me out of the sensible-shoe habit that I fear crossing into as a 40-year-old suburbanite.

Flat sandals -- but not flip-flops -- are enjoying a comeback, especially if they're in the brown family. Since I do like ballet flats, she asks, what about the ones by Rachel Zoe with chain-link detailing on the back?

And, Gosselin says, the quintessential summer shoe is a canvas-top espadrille.

2012年6月14日星期四

Lace up the running shoes and get moving

After an impressive response at last year's first Mercy Day Run, event organizers are gearing up for another successful event. The 2012 run is slated for Saturday, Sept. 29 beginning at 7 a.m. at Mercy's East parking lot.

"Last year, participants were blessed perfect weather and an enthusiastic crowd," said Reta Baker, Mercy Hospital president. "We hope to deliver the same type of experience this year. We've even made some improvements based on suggestions from last year's athletes. For runners, precise timing and measurements are vital so we have added a chip timing system and more accurate measurement devises."

Mercy Day Run 2012 will offer participants two divisions: a non-certified 5K and a non-certified half marathon. All runners will receive a Mercy Day Run logoed T-shirt and refreshments after the race.

Online registration is available. Registration forms are also available at Mercy Health for Life and Buck Run Community Center. Each entrant must complete and sign a separate event waiver the morning of the event.

The 5K run fee is $25 per individual. Awards will be given for the top three finishers in each age group. The half marathon fee is $40 per individual and includes a participation medal for each runner.

The top five finishing males and females will be awarded an additional place medal.

Pre-registration is recommended. After Sept. 14, an additional $5 per participant is added to the registration fee. Race day registration will be available from 6-6:30 a.m.

"Mercy is dedicated to transforming the health care experience and improving the quality of life for residents within our service area," Baker said. "By offering events such as the Mercy Day Run, we aim to encourage and support exercise and healthy lifestyle choices."

Proceeds will benefit the resurfacing of the community walking trail at Fort Scott Community College.

This year marks the 126th year of Mercy's presence in the Fort Scott community. Every Sept. 24, the Mercy Health Ministry recognizes the heritage and history of the founding Sisters. Across Mercy's four-state service area, Mercy Day honors the servitude and compassionate care of the Sisters who set the Mercy health care ministry in motion.

2012年6月13日星期三

Shoe Distributors Have Their Day in Court

From luxury brands to toning hooves, stylish and low-cost shoe distributors are up against the law these days. Sketchers' (NYSE: SKX ) fitness tennis shoes have come under fire in a legal case claiming their health benefits are bogus, while the striking color women have come to know and love regarding their lavish Christian Louboutin heels now signifies a bloodbath the shoe distributor underwent in a court case this week.

SKX's athletic debacle made waves for the company when it came to investor confidence throughout recent months, as its toning soles were called out for making false and unsubstantiated claims in advertisements using celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Brooke Burke. While the tides are turning for the better since the hefty settlement , the shoe distributor is still dealing with backlash for promoting a product that its customers now feel duped by.

Skechers' shapely bottoms are not the only soles walking on thin ice, as privately-held shoe retailer Christian Louboutin has had to admit wrong-doings in court concerning its notorious red sole. Louboutin's spikey stems failed to crush the battle against Spanish clothing and accessories company Zara, a retailer that made use of the rosy underside for which Louboutin has become famous.

Here's where things get a little dicey. Christian Louboutin brought the court case on in 2008 following Zara's distribution of a $70 heel that boasted an apple-red sole. The Paris-based company believed it was the only shoe producer that had the right to push product with said bottom, as it is red in a specific context that only Louboutin's can use (according to the creator himself). Turns out, he was wrong.

While the end result of the case was not monetarily devastating to either company, Zara was able to trot away with not only $3,600, but allowance to place whatever color it so chooses on the underside of its shoes.

Christian Louboutin likely took the loss quite hard, as he has vigorously attempted to defend his high-end brand throughout the legal scuffle.

"Even in the food industry, Cadbury recently won a lawsuit against Nestlé for using purple packaging. All this proves that the colors play a part in a brand's identity. I'm not saying that red usually belongs to me - I repeat that this is about a precise red, used in a precise location," Louboutin recently told the Daily Mail.

Zara is not the first to come up against Louboutin's colorful conundrum, but will likely end up being the last new case the company takes to court over the infamous sole as the ruling was made final last week. As Mr. Louboutin heads back to court to appeal a similar case against Yves Saint Laurent, it appears that ladies will no longer have to pay top dollar to portray the elegance his red soles are made to emanate, as countless companies now have the right to bear their candy apple soles.

2012年6月12日星期二

her shoes are Guiseppe Zanotti, her brooch Chanel

Wealthy shoppers like Liu are increasingly turning up their noses at labels they believe have been tainted by the common touch, seeking out understated, and exclusive, merchandise from the likes of Chanel or Hermes instead. That is becoming a big challenge for designers hoping to cash in on the world's fastest growing luxury market.

"I have two Louis Vuitton handbags but I no longer carry them although they are still in fashion," said Liu, a 31-year-old employee at a multinational cosmetics firm.

"I don't think the brand fits me any more."

More than a decade of strong economic growth has helped swell the disposable incomes of millions of Chinese, creating legions of men and women with a voracious appetite for status symbols regardless of the cost.

China's importance for firms such as Louis Vuitton's parent LVMH and Gucci's PPR SA is indisputable: last year, as Europe was mired in financial crisis and the U.S. economy faltered, mainland Chinese shoppers spent an estimated 111 billion yuan ($18 billion) on luxury goods, according to consultants Bain & Co.

China is the world's third biggest market for personal luxury goods, worth at least 160 billion yuan ($25 billion). In the next three years, it is expected to leapfrog over Japan and the United States to take the top spot, with the luxury segment expanding to 180 billion yuan ($28 billion).

As it grows, the market is also maturing, moving from so-called aspirational luxury, where bling is king, to what experts call absolute luxury: the desire to be seen as both wealthy and discerning.

"In the past, it was just a checklist. If you were one of the top five brands out of some magazine, you found that people in China just checked the checklist and bought according to the list," said Vincent Liu, partner at Boston Consulting Group.

"Going forward, people will be more selective. They know what and where and when to use what brands and products."

For sophisticated consumers like Liu, that means purchases such as a $2,000 Chanel mini bag and a Prada clutch. She's also eyeing a coral lambskin bag from Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its signature woven leather goods.

"The truly wealthy, the real millionaires, they will not want to buy LV Louis Vuitton or Gucci because they are too commonplace," said Shaun Rein, managing director, China Market Research Group. "Rich people are getting richer and they want exclusiveness and more self-indulgence."

OVER EXPOSED

China's luxury market is poised to grow 18 to 20 percent this year, steeply outperforming the single-digit forecasts for Europe, the Americas and Japan, according to Bain, explaining the rapid expansion of larger luxury firms such as LVMH.

For years, LV's Monogram "Speedy" tote, a dome-shaped classic favored by Audrey Hepburn, was one of the most desirable bags for Chinese women because it was a clear signal of having made it: the handbag costs double the $400 an average Chinese worker earns a month.

The brand is LVMH's cash cow and revenues are almost double those of Gucci, widely considered its closest competitor.

But as LVMH grew in China - there are currently about 38 Louis Vuitton stores there, including in remote areas such as the southern Guangxi autonomous region, compared to the 57 or so in Japan - it lost some of its cachet.

"In China, Louis Vuitton is seen as the brand that even your ai-yi, or domestic helper, can afford," said a retail consultant who declined to be named in order to be candid.

When asked to comment, LVMH told Reuters via email it expected to "gain a brand new lead on the market" via a new store set to open next month in Shanghai's swanky Plaza 66 mall. "The Plaza 66 will confirm Vuitton as the trendsetting brand in China," the email said.

Gucci did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

LV remains one of China's most popular labels - a recent survey by a strategists Digital Luxury Group put it at the top of web searches by consumers.

But brands such as Chanel and Hermes are catching up fast.

A recent study by consultants Bain shows twice as many Chinese now covet Hermes, creators of the iconic Birkin and Kelly handbags, and the brand is the third most likely to be purchased after Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

"Some prefer Hermes because our products are more subtle and not over exposed," the brand's China president, Leo Liu, told Reuters in an emailed statement.

SOME LIKE IT HAUTE

For Gao Jie, 27, a public relations employee who routinely buys luxury goods, Hermes is the ultimate status symbol: their bags are handmade, come in limited quantities, cost anything between $9,000 to $150,000 and are generally not within the reach of the general public.

Gao says this year she aims to buy a brightly colored Kelly Candy handbag that costs at least four times her monthly salary of 20,000 yuan ($3,100).

"There are some things that are classic by design and widely recognized by the market. I really hope to one day be able to own all these classic designs," said Gao, who regularly sets aside some of her salary, and income from investing in stocks, to buy shoes and bags.

To attract shoppers like Gao, LVMH and other larger luxury brands are trying to strike the difficult balance between exclusivity and popularity to remain profitable.

2012年6月11日星期一

With regard to Duchess of Cambridge

The Duchess of Cambridge has found a staunch defender for her shoe selection and fashion in general, in the world-renowned shoe designer Christian Louboutin. He has gone so far as to praise Kate Middleton for her chic sense of style. Now that coming from the shoe maestro, as any fashion aficionado will aver, is high praise indeed.

Recently designer Nicholas Kirkwood criticized Duchess Kate for playing it safe in her fashion choices. Well, Kate Middleton can now rest assured as Louboutin, notorious for his candidness, has himself given the seal of approval. The shoe genius insists Prince William’s wife “doesn’t need advice” from the fashion elite.

While a string of celebrities from Jennifer Lopez to Coleen Rooney to Victoria Beckham swear by Louboutin’s red-soled shoes, Louboutin is clear, Duchess Kate does not really need high fashion to make her remarkable. Christian Louboutin told vogue.co.uk. “She has all the choice in the world She’s a very elegant young woman. I wouldn’t give her any adviceshe doesn’t need it, let her choose for herself. She’s a big girl now,” he opines.

Kate has garnered plaudits globally for her modern style and has even transformed hitherto unknown brands into household names. Due to Duchess Kate’s charisma nick-named ‘Duchess Effect’ the UK economy has got a stunning 2 billion boost with high street brands like Reiss, LK Bennett and Zara, with even a George at Asda having reaped the benefits of Catherine’s outfit choices.

Louboutin’s compliment comes against the backdrop of his recent blistering attack against women who find it difficult to carry off his skyscraper heels. Earlier, the designer had controversially told Grazia Magazine that it didn’t really matter to him if women were in pain when they wore his shoes but that they should look elegant. “If you can’t walk in them, then don’t wear them,” was his typically forthright advice.

Responding to that sensational quote of his, in his latest interview with Vogue, Louboutin defending himself says he has been misquoted as far as his designs were concerned. Clarifying his stand, the shoe-king says he does not go out of his way to create ''painful'' shoes; just that he values sexiness, design and beauty much above comfort.

“People say I am the king of painful shoes. I don’t want to create painful shoes, but it is not my job to create something comfortable. I try to make high heels as comfortable as they can be, but my priority is design, beauty and sexiness.” He goes on to add: “I’m not against them, but comfort is not my focus.”

This year, Christian Louboutin is celebrating his two decades in fashion. He is presently the subject of an extensive retrospective exhibition at London's Design Museum According to the designer, the highpoint of his career was creating the shoes which were worn at the finale of Yves Saint Laurent's final couture show. The only time the late designer ever collaborated with someone else.

With regard to Duchess of Cambridge, who has till date not worn his shoes, her admirers will surely love to see their ‘fashion icon’ wearing one of Louboutin creations in the near future. This is something the shoe maestro may be eagerly looking forward to, now that he has blessed her fashion choices.

2012年6月10日星期日

The Welsh beauty stays true to her style

Welsh opera singer Katherine Jenkins has the moves on Dancing with the Stars – and has the style off the dance floor, as well. Katherine was spotted in this feminine frock as she and her dance partner, Mark Ballas, were making an appearance on Good Morning America. We have rounded up similar items so you can replicate her fresh, spring look.

What’s the secret to Katherine’s chic style? She told Cosmopolitan UK that she has learned to dress for her body type.

“I try and dress in things that suit my body shape because I’m quite curvy,” she said. “I really love cute little dresses.  I’m far more of a dress girl than jeans. Day dresses are good because you can still feel girlie without feeling over-the-top.”

The Welsh beauty stays true to her style in this floral belted sundress paired with peep-toe wedges that show off her tan. Copy her look in this Disty Floral Belted Surplice Dress from Forever 21 that is a great bargain at only $19.80.  This dress features a sexy v-neckline and feminine full skirt that will flatter your curves.

Belted dresses are a huge trend this season and you can wear this look by pairing your own belt to a dress to create an entirely new look. The Lush Print Blouson Dress from Nordstrom ($44) would look great paired with a leather belt and would give you a fresh look like Katherine’s chic style.

Katherine spices up her look with coral wedge sandals that highlight the warm colors in her dress. She said she often opts for heels over flats. “I do like to wear little sandals in the summer but with most things I put heels on because I LOVE shoes,” she says.

2012年6月7日星期四

The tension between brands and bloggers is resulting

There’s been some backlash from designers and brands as they question having to pay bloggers from $5,000 up to $50,000 to work with them. Skeptics question whether paying bloggers results in significant return on investment, especially in comparison to a magazine or television ad. Besides, some brands contend, if bloggers are journalists, journalists aren’t paid for writing about a company.

Bloggers argue back that their fees have substantial ROI because blogs can drive millions of page views a month both on their sites and the brand’s Web site. So why shouldn’t they be paid? And while some bloggers are journalists in the true sense, most of them don’t consider themselves journalists on par with those at The New York Times or the The Wall Street Journal. They are more like columnists, expressing opinions about what they see.

“When you want to work with a blogger in a way that you would with any influencer — whether it’s a photographer, a stylist, a designer for your windows, a public endorser of your brand, advertising or a design collaboration — that’s where you have to compensate because you would compensate anyone for those things,” said Karen Robinovitz, co-founder and chief creative officer of Digital Brand Architects, who considers herself the pioneer of “blogger agents.”

She pointed out that if a brand sends a blogger a box of clothes with the intent of having them create four dedicated full looks that they need shot for posts, the talent has to location scout — and is responsible for styling, hair, makeup, photography, art direction, retouching, copywriting and posting.

“That takes a magazine sometimes 20 people to pull off,” Robinovitz said.

The tension between brands and bloggers is resulting from the ever-evolving world of the Web. As brands increase their involvement with bloggers in terms of coverage and projects, the line between what they should be paid for and what they shouldn’t is growing increasingly blurry.

For between $5,000 and $20,000, a brand can work with an influential blogger to host an event (plus airfare, hotel and entertainment, of course) — one that gets upward of a few million page views a month and will cross-promote the brand on the blogger’s site (although the jury is still out on proving ROI from page views, with sales being the only concrete measure). Starting from $20,000 to $25,000 (and up), a company can book a blogger for various weeklong projects during Fashion Week — with some bloggers fetching nearly $50,000 for even longer-term partnerships. In 2010, Bryanboy’s Bryan Grey Yambao boasted that he made more than $100,000 a year from blogging (and got a lot of flack for it) — which by today’s standards seems quite low for a top-tier blogger, especially when one factors in the partnerships with advertising and other heavily integrated projects.

But how can brands know the money is well spent? Neiman Marcus measures the effectiveness of a campaign by tracking page views, uniques, impressions, referral traffic, as well as engagement through “likes,” comments, retweets, replies, brand mentions, shares and increases in in-bound and out-bound links, according to vice president of corporate public relations Gabrielle de Papp.

She recently voiced a complaint about the going rates for bloggers at a panel with Song of Style’s Aimee Song at the Lucky Blogger Conference in Santa Monica, Calif., where she said, “editorially sized budgets” sometimes hinder the ability to work with bloggers.

He made the shoes with pink

Tatehana, who has made more than 20 pairs for Lady Gaga over the last two years, said he took the traditional “geta” shoes of geishas and made a modern form with his sculptural platforms.

“My work became an icon. It worked not only as branding for me. It also became part of her branding,” Tatehana said in a recent interview at his Tokyo workshop, cluttered with art books and his sleek shoes — some glittering with Swarovski crystals, others with golden studs.

The 26-year-old, who evokes the pensive mood of a monk with his quiet voice, long hair tied back in a bun and baggy Yohji Yamamoto pants, was still a student when his career took off. In fact, Lady Gaga’s first pair of Tatehanas had been the subject of his graduation thesis at the prestigious Tokyo University of the Arts, where he studied traditional weaving and kimono dyeing.

He made the shoes with pink, reptilian-looking leather from a stingray, common in Japanese crafts such as decoration for swords. He started his fashion brand by trumpeting the design in an email he sent to dozens of people in the industry.

He received just three responses: one from a blogger, one from a journalist and one from Lady Gaga’s stylist.

Lady Gaga was not available for comment. But fashion guru and beer heiress Daphne Guinness said she is a big fan.

“I am so happy to have a friend who speaks the same language as me — not English or Japanese, but the language of art, which transcends linguistics,” Guinness said. “He is truly a unique talent.”

2012年6月6日星期三

Bloggers argue back that their fees have substantial ROI

There’s been some backlash from designers and brands as they question having to pay bloggers from $5,000 up to $50,000 to work with them. Skeptics question whether paying bloggers results in significant return on investment, especially in comparison to a magazine or television ad. Besides, some brands contend, if bloggers are journalists, journalists aren’t paid for writing about a company.

Bloggers argue back that their fees have substantial ROI because blogs can drive millions of page views a month both on their sites and the brand’s Web site. So why shouldn’t they be paid? And while some bloggers are journalists in the true sense, most of them don’t consider themselves journalists on par with those at The New York Times or the The Wall Street Journal. They are more like columnists, expressing opinions about what they see.

“When you want to work with a blogger in a way that you would with any influencer — whether it’s a photographer, a stylist, a designer for your windows, a public endorser of your brand, advertising or a design collaboration — that’s where you have to compensate because you would compensate anyone for those things,” said Karen Robinovitz, co-founder and chief creative officer of Digital Brand Architects, who considers herself the pioneer of “blogger agents.”

She pointed out that if a brand sends a blogger a box of clothes with the intent of having them create four dedicated full looks that they need shot for posts, the talent has to location scout — and is responsible for styling, hair, makeup, photography, art direction, retouching, copywriting and posting.

2012年6月5日星期二

A Closer Look at the Business of Blogging

There’s been some backlash from designers and brands as they question having to pay bloggers from $5,000 up to $50,000 to work with them. Skeptics question whether paying bloggers results in significant return on investment, especially in comparison to a magazine or television ad. Besides, some brands contend, if bloggers are journalists, journalists aren’t paid for writing about a company.

Bloggers argue back that their fees have substantial ROI because blogs can drive millions of page views a month both on their sites and the brand’s Web site. So why shouldn’t they be paid? And while some bloggers are journalists in the true sense, most of them don’t consider themselves journalists on par with those at The New York Times or the The Wall Street Journal. They are more like columnists, expressing opinions about what they see.

“When you want to work with a blogger in a way that you would with any influencer — whether it’s a photographer, a stylist, a designer for your windows, a public endorser of your brand, advertising or a design collaboration — that’s where you have to compensate because you would compensate anyone for those things,” said Karen Robinovitz, co-founder and chief creative officer of Digital Brand Architects, who considers herself the pioneer of “blogger agents.”

She pointed out that if a brand sends a blogger a box of clothes with the intent of having them create four dedicated full looks that they need shot for posts, the talent has to location scout — and is responsible for styling, hair, makeup, photography, art direction, retouching, copywriting and posting.

“That takes a magazine sometimes 20 people to pull off,” Robinovitz said.

The tension between brands and bloggers is resulting from the ever-evolving world of the Web. As brands increase their involvement with bloggers in terms of coverage and projects, the line between what they should be paid for and what they shouldn’t is growing increasingly blurry.

For between $5,000 and $20,000, a brand can work with an influential blogger to host an event (plus airfare, hotel and entertainment, of course) — one that gets upward of a few million page views a month and will cross-promote the brand on the blogger’s site (although the jury is still out on proving ROI from page views, with sales being the only concrete measure).

Starting from $20,000 to $25,000 (and up), a company can book a blogger for various weeklong projects during Fashion Week — with some bloggers fetching nearly $50,000 for even longer-term partnerships. In 2010, Bryanboy’s Bryan Grey Yambao boasted that he made more than $100,000 a year from blogging (and got a lot of flack for it) — which by today’s standards seems quite low for a top-tier blogger, especially when one factors in the partnerships with advertising and other heavily integrated projects.

2012年6月4日星期一

Ceramics tell the story of an ancient Southwest migration

Approximately eight centuries ago, people living along the Colorado Plateau in what is now the Four Corners area faced a crisis. Environmental changes that devastated their agricultural practices and likely aggravated social unrest forced significant numbers of these people to move away.

Many of them headed south into central and southern Arizona and western New Mexico, into lands already inhabited by well-established groups.

What is remarkable about this diaspora is that while there is no written record of what happened, much of what archaeologists know is told in the ceramic bowls, plates and figurines that were created and left behind when those civilizations later collapsed.

Patrick Lyons, acting associate director of the Arizona State Museum at the University of Arizona and head of the museum's collections, has been analyzing hundreds of ceramics from Kinishba, the ruins of an 800-room pueblo just below the Mogollon Rim in east-central Arizona.

Lyons's results will be published later this year by the Arizona State Museum Archaeological Series as a chapter in "Kinishba Lost and Found: Mid-Century Excavations and Contemporary Perspectives."

Lyons, who also is an associate professor in the UA School of Anthropology, said his work is a re-analysis of earlier studies, many of which were done by UA archaeologists. The diaspora from the Kayenta region has, in fact, been studied extensively over the last 80 years.

It started in the 1930s. Byron Cummings, the first head of what was then the UA archaeology department, excavated Kinishba. The pueblo is just one of the sites where migrants fleeing the north settled.

Cummings and the students in his field school collected hundreds of ceramic objects, "bushels upon bushels," he wrote, that spoke to "their individual tastes and skills." There were pots used for cooking and for storage. Other vessels were used to serve food, sometimes for large groups. There were miniatures and animal effigies. They came in different colors and were hand-painted, or embossed or even perforated.

The earliest studies of Kinishba pottery were published by UA students for their master's degrees. Unfortunately, the mindset of most archaeologists of that era was geared more toward collecting and less on analysis.

Lyons said more sophisticated excavation techniques and improved analytical methods developed since then has led to a greater understanding of these materials and the people who made them. New discoveries also have made Kinishba a key piece of the puzzle of what happened.

Kinishba, said Lyons, is a bit overlooked as a source of archaeological data, in part because of the haphazard way materials were collected and documented, and because a fire in Cummings' home destroyed many of his field notes. Emil Haury, who succeeded Cummings, later moved the UA field school to other pueblos at Forestdale, Point of Pines and Grasshopper, and made scientific analysis a more important component of the excavations.

What has become apparent is that local pottery-making at Kinishba and elsewhere was heavily influenced by the techniques brought by the new settlers from the north, including perforated plates and specific painted patters on bowls and jars. While some ceramics were imported, some at great distances, others were made with local materials.

2012年6月3日星期日

ShakeID tracks touch action in multi-user display

How do you determine who is doing the touching with a multi-user touch display? Microsoft Research has published a paper that presents a technique for doing so. The researchers make their attempt by fusing Kinect, mobile device inertial sensing, and multi-touch interactive displays.

The technique can associate multi-touch interactions to individual users and their accelerometer-equipped mobile devices. ShakeID is the technique; it associates a specific user’s touch contacts on an interactive display to a mobile device held by the user. The phone’s on-board sensors and touch screen sensing go to work to drive the association.

The researchers say that the technique is special compared to other approaches that require bringing the phone in physical contact with the display. ShakeID differs as it only requires the user to hold the phone while touching the display, The approach involves a Kinect camera, multi-touch display and two accelerometer-equipped phones. Specifically, the experimenters used the Microsoft Kinect for Windows SDK to track the hands of multiple users, the Microsoft Surface 2.0 SDK for the multi-touch display and two Windows Phone smartphones.

If two users touch a display simultaneously in different locations to grab content, ShakeID can associate each touch to a specific user and transfer the correct content to each user’s personal device.

Capabilities like this may make shared interactive displays for walk-up use in conference rooms and office hallways more useful. The study says that other applications for interactive displays incorporate smaller devices such as mobile phones.

The researchers showed that ShakeID cross-correlates acceleration data from smartphones that people carry together with hand acceleration captured through Kinect to perform user identification. ShakeID matches the motion sensed by the device to motion observed by a Microsoft Kinect camera pointed at the users standing in front of the touch display. To validate this approach, the researchers conducted a 14 person user study and showed accuracy rates of 92% and higher.

The authors say, though, that an important limitation of the process involves the case where the hand holding the phone is stationary. The researchers acknowledge the limits—in realtime the phone users holding the phone may not remain stationary, especially with larger displays.

The paper is titled, “Your Phone or Mine? Fusing Body, Touch and Device Sensing for Multi-User Device-Display Interaction.”

Microsoft’s Kinect made other news recently in London, where St. Thomas Hospital is testing out Kinect’s gesture controls and voice commands with surgeons. The team interacts with a computer that shows a 3-D image of the part of the body being operated on.

Using Kinect, there is less risk of contamination from touching computer peripherals during an operation. Standing straight, arms raised, the surgeon issues commands to a Kinect sensor beneath a monitor displaying a 3-D image of the patient's damaged body part. As such, the surgeon can pan across, zoom in and out, rotate images, lock the image and make markers.