The European Union on Friday banned exports to Syria of luxury shoes, caviar and boats, as well as goods with possible military applications, in an effort to step up the pressure on President Bashar al-Assad's government and family.
The decision came as violence surges in Syria, despite an April 12 ceasefire negotiated by international mediator Kofi Annan and a range of sanctions by the European Union, United States and others against Damascus.
"In the current situation, the EU must keep up the pressure on the Syrian regime," EU foreign policy chief Catherine Ashton said in a statement.
"EU sanctions target those responsible for the appalling repression and violence against the civilian population. We have carefully calibrated today's decisions to avoid affecting the Syrian people."
The new EU sanctions are designed partly to target the family of the Syrian president, in particular his wife Asma al-Assad, who is said to have continued shopping for luxury products during the conflict.
Emails she exchanged with her husband, obtained by Britain's Guardian newspaper, showed they were buying jewels and expensive furniture during the violence, and that she liked Chanel dresses and Christian Louboutin shoes.
The EU ban, which will go into effect on June 17, includes shoes costing more than 600 euros ($760), as well as jewellery, gems and pearls.
But it excludes non-luxury cars and other lower-priced items in order that diplomats and other foreigners on missions to Syria would not be overly affected, one EU diplomat said.
The European Union also banned export of caviar, truffles, and cigars costing more than 10 euros per item; wines and spirits over 50 euros per litre; and luxury vehicles, planes and boats costing more than 25,000 euros.
Also banned for export were protection equipment, such as gas masks and protective suits; chemicals that may be used to make toxic chemical agents; and certain pathogens, such as certain viruses, bacteria and toxins.
So far, the EU has imposed asset freezes and visa bans on 128 people responsible for or associated with the violent repression against Syria's civilian population, and an asset freeze on 43 companies and other entities.
EU foreign ministers are scheduled to meet in Luxembourg on June 25, when they are likely to add four entities and one person to the sanctions list, an EU diplomat said.
The United Nations says more than 10,000 people have been killed by government forces, while Syria says at least 2,600 members of the military and security forces have been killed by what it calls foreign-backed "Islamist terrorists."
Russia and China, both permanent members of the U.N. Security Council with veto power, have blocked efforts by Western powers to condemn Assad or call for his removal.
2012年6月19日星期二
2012年6月18日星期一
Adidas’ new ‘shackle’ shoes stir controversy
LOS ANGELES — Adidas and eccentric Beverly Hills designer Jeremy Scott are under fire for a new shoe design that critics say calls up painful images of slavery.
The shoes come with a set of plastic shackles, and a tag line on Adidas’ Facebook page strikes a playful tone: “Got a sneaker game so hot you lock your kicks to your ankles?”
But others aren’t laughing and have taken to social media to lament the design, due out in August.
“Our ancestors fought blood, sweat and tears just so fools can turn pain into an accessory?” went one post on the sneaker giant’s Facebook page. Another urged: “these should be taken off the market.”
And on Twitter: “any designer that’s nostalgic for slavery will Never have my support.”
Efforts to reach Scott were unsuccessful. But an Adidas representative defended the design in a statement to the Los Angeles Times: “The design ... is nothing more than the designer Jeremy Scott’s outrageous and unique take on fashion and has nothing to do with slavery.”
Not everyone is offended by the design, part of a whimsical line that also features sneakers accented with teddy bears, butterfly wings and belt buckles.
“It’s fashion. Just shoes. That’s all it is. And they are dope,” one person wrote on Adidas’ Facebook wall.
The controversy follows on the “heels” of Nike’s Black & Tan controversy earlier this year.
David M. Carter, head of the University of Southern California Sports Business Institute, told the Times that this controversy could potentially block the release of the Adidas shoe.
“As offensive as the shoe may be to many, ultimately, ‘distaste’ is in the eye of the shareholder as they will weigh in — if not determine — the appropriateness of this product. Public sentiment, pressure from advocacy groups, and media coverage will also contribute heavily to management’s decision to continue to market or pull the product.”
The shoes come with a set of plastic shackles, and a tag line on Adidas’ Facebook page strikes a playful tone: “Got a sneaker game so hot you lock your kicks to your ankles?”
But others aren’t laughing and have taken to social media to lament the design, due out in August.
“Our ancestors fought blood, sweat and tears just so fools can turn pain into an accessory?” went one post on the sneaker giant’s Facebook page. Another urged: “these should be taken off the market.”
And on Twitter: “any designer that’s nostalgic for slavery will Never have my support.”
Efforts to reach Scott were unsuccessful. But an Adidas representative defended the design in a statement to the Los Angeles Times: “The design ... is nothing more than the designer Jeremy Scott’s outrageous and unique take on fashion and has nothing to do with slavery.”
Not everyone is offended by the design, part of a whimsical line that also features sneakers accented with teddy bears, butterfly wings and belt buckles.
“It’s fashion. Just shoes. That’s all it is. And they are dope,” one person wrote on Adidas’ Facebook wall.
The controversy follows on the “heels” of Nike’s Black & Tan controversy earlier this year.
David M. Carter, head of the University of Southern California Sports Business Institute, told the Times that this controversy could potentially block the release of the Adidas shoe.
“As offensive as the shoe may be to many, ultimately, ‘distaste’ is in the eye of the shareholder as they will weigh in — if not determine — the appropriateness of this product. Public sentiment, pressure from advocacy groups, and media coverage will also contribute heavily to management’s decision to continue to market or pull the product.”
2012年6月17日星期日
Searching for the best shoe of summer
Somewhere between my favorite workhorse winter boots and the flip-flops I'll wear on my summer beach vacation is the shoe that would fill in the gaps. It would take me to work and through weekends, and out to dinner afterward.
But for all the time I spend staring at the floor of my closet, I still don't know which shoe that might be.
Maybe I don't own it yet. Yes, that must be it. It's a perfect excuse to go shoe shopping -- and what woman doesn't love that?!
Unfortunately, I've been on three retail excursions since then, and I'm still mostly alternating between some old tan ballet flats and a pair of brown cork wedge sandals. I've also had on espadrilles, woven-leather flat sandals and patent-leather peep-toes. Not the one-size-fits-all solution that I was hoping for -- and not the one-size-fits-all solution I feel like my dark brown riding boots give me half the year.
"Shoes are important to creating an image of yourself," says Los Angeles-based stylist Laurie Brucker. "Nothing makes you feel better than when you are wearing a fantastic pair of shoes."
I'm on the right path with neutral tan shoes, she advises, but there needs to be something to jazz them up: a bright contrast color, a print or some sort of embellishment.
That might seem counterintuitive, but, she says, that special detail is what a shoe needs to draw you to it. A boot's appeal is built-in: Think of all that beautiful leather, not to mention what it does to lengthen the wearer's silhouette.
But there are warm-weather options. She suggests a light beige patent leather pump, maybe with a peep-toe, as an almost surefire option for someone who dresses up for the office -- and then might be going out afterward. Any shoe that's a similar color to your skin tone should be particularly flattering, advises Brucker, part of Stacy London's Style for Hire network.
That one isn't going to take me to the sidelines of my children's soccer games or even a Saturday night party with my mostly casual crowd, however.
I am not the only one having this problem. Last week alone, at the very tail end of spring, I saw three people on a single day in their high-shaft leather winter boots. The boots looked lived in and loved, even if they appeared a little wrong against the sunny sky.
A cap-toe ballet flat with contrasting colors would provide a lot of mileage, Brucker explains, because it can be grounded in a neutral camel or black and then tipped with a pop of color or a flash of metal. A pointy-toe front is probably a little more fashion-forward and will live into the fall season and beyond, she says. (I'll be back in my boots by then.)
I took a spin through the Nordstrom shoe department armed with Brucker's advice, and I admired lots of things from Uggs thongs to Tory Burch open-toe ballet flats to Jimmy Choo platform wedges. All had their pluses, but they came with minuses: The thongs would make that clack-clack sound in the office; the flats were too similar to something I already own; and the Choos were out of my price range.
The popular flat platforms are too clunky for me and my pretty straightforward-but-not-quite-conservative look. But while they're a bona fide trend this year, I will note I saw them mostly on sale racks.
There was a pair of almost-winner Cole Haan-Nike Air wedge-heel sandals, but they were in black, and I wasn't sure if the dark ankle strap would work with enough of my lighter-hue summer wardrobe.
Jennifer Gosselin, senior vice president and general manager of online retailer Piperlime, later tells me that I probably was wise to be a little wary of black, especially if I'm wearing a lot of brightly colored bottoms.
"I tend to avoid black. Skin tone matters here, but I feel like black stands out on me and can make a sharp line," she says.
She doesn't worry about that as much with a brightly colored shoe -- perhaps orange, yellow or an ocean blue -- against a black bottom, especially if the shoe is fairly bare, like a simple leather thong.
But her first suggestion for a go-to shoe has a hint of shine to it. A sandal like the Sam Edelman Sophie sandal, with its metallic buckle and moderate 2-inch wedge heel, easily transitions from weekday to weekend, she says.
"The height makes it a little more polished, but it's not quite as dressed up as a pump or high heel," Gosselin says. "You could wear it all day."
Generally, she'd stick to a modern, minimalist style, but, again, she also mentions the one element of pizzazz to keep me out of the sensible-shoe habit that I fear crossing into as a 40-year-old suburbanite.
Flat sandals -- but not flip-flops -- are enjoying a comeback, especially if they're in the brown family. Since I do like ballet flats, she asks, what about the ones by Rachel Zoe with chain-link detailing on the back?
And, Gosselin says, the quintessential summer shoe is a canvas-top espadrille.
But for all the time I spend staring at the floor of my closet, I still don't know which shoe that might be.
Maybe I don't own it yet. Yes, that must be it. It's a perfect excuse to go shoe shopping -- and what woman doesn't love that?!
Unfortunately, I've been on three retail excursions since then, and I'm still mostly alternating between some old tan ballet flats and a pair of brown cork wedge sandals. I've also had on espadrilles, woven-leather flat sandals and patent-leather peep-toes. Not the one-size-fits-all solution that I was hoping for -- and not the one-size-fits-all solution I feel like my dark brown riding boots give me half the year.
"Shoes are important to creating an image of yourself," says Los Angeles-based stylist Laurie Brucker. "Nothing makes you feel better than when you are wearing a fantastic pair of shoes."
I'm on the right path with neutral tan shoes, she advises, but there needs to be something to jazz them up: a bright contrast color, a print or some sort of embellishment.
That might seem counterintuitive, but, she says, that special detail is what a shoe needs to draw you to it. A boot's appeal is built-in: Think of all that beautiful leather, not to mention what it does to lengthen the wearer's silhouette.
But there are warm-weather options. She suggests a light beige patent leather pump, maybe with a peep-toe, as an almost surefire option for someone who dresses up for the office -- and then might be going out afterward. Any shoe that's a similar color to your skin tone should be particularly flattering, advises Brucker, part of Stacy London's Style for Hire network.
That one isn't going to take me to the sidelines of my children's soccer games or even a Saturday night party with my mostly casual crowd, however.
I am not the only one having this problem. Last week alone, at the very tail end of spring, I saw three people on a single day in their high-shaft leather winter boots. The boots looked lived in and loved, even if they appeared a little wrong against the sunny sky.
A cap-toe ballet flat with contrasting colors would provide a lot of mileage, Brucker explains, because it can be grounded in a neutral camel or black and then tipped with a pop of color or a flash of metal. A pointy-toe front is probably a little more fashion-forward and will live into the fall season and beyond, she says. (I'll be back in my boots by then.)
I took a spin through the Nordstrom shoe department armed with Brucker's advice, and I admired lots of things from Uggs thongs to Tory Burch open-toe ballet flats to Jimmy Choo platform wedges. All had their pluses, but they came with minuses: The thongs would make that clack-clack sound in the office; the flats were too similar to something I already own; and the Choos were out of my price range.
The popular flat platforms are too clunky for me and my pretty straightforward-but-not-quite-conservative look. But while they're a bona fide trend this year, I will note I saw them mostly on sale racks.
There was a pair of almost-winner Cole Haan-Nike Air wedge-heel sandals, but they were in black, and I wasn't sure if the dark ankle strap would work with enough of my lighter-hue summer wardrobe.
Jennifer Gosselin, senior vice president and general manager of online retailer Piperlime, later tells me that I probably was wise to be a little wary of black, especially if I'm wearing a lot of brightly colored bottoms.
"I tend to avoid black. Skin tone matters here, but I feel like black stands out on me and can make a sharp line," she says.
She doesn't worry about that as much with a brightly colored shoe -- perhaps orange, yellow or an ocean blue -- against a black bottom, especially if the shoe is fairly bare, like a simple leather thong.
But her first suggestion for a go-to shoe has a hint of shine to it. A sandal like the Sam Edelman Sophie sandal, with its metallic buckle and moderate 2-inch wedge heel, easily transitions from weekday to weekend, she says.
"The height makes it a little more polished, but it's not quite as dressed up as a pump or high heel," Gosselin says. "You could wear it all day."
Generally, she'd stick to a modern, minimalist style, but, again, she also mentions the one element of pizzazz to keep me out of the sensible-shoe habit that I fear crossing into as a 40-year-old suburbanite.
Flat sandals -- but not flip-flops -- are enjoying a comeback, especially if they're in the brown family. Since I do like ballet flats, she asks, what about the ones by Rachel Zoe with chain-link detailing on the back?
And, Gosselin says, the quintessential summer shoe is a canvas-top espadrille.
2012年6月14日星期四
Lace up the running shoes and get moving
After an impressive response at last year's first Mercy Day Run, event organizers are gearing up for another successful event. The 2012 run is slated for Saturday, Sept. 29 beginning at 7 a.m. at Mercy's East parking lot.
"Last year, participants were blessed perfect weather and an enthusiastic crowd," said Reta Baker, Mercy Hospital president. "We hope to deliver the same type of experience this year. We've even made some improvements based on suggestions from last year's athletes. For runners, precise timing and measurements are vital so we have added a chip timing system and more accurate measurement devises."
Mercy Day Run 2012 will offer participants two divisions: a non-certified 5K and a non-certified half marathon. All runners will receive a Mercy Day Run logoed T-shirt and refreshments after the race.
Online registration is available. Registration forms are also available at Mercy Health for Life and Buck Run Community Center. Each entrant must complete and sign a separate event waiver the morning of the event.
The 5K run fee is $25 per individual. Awards will be given for the top three finishers in each age group. The half marathon fee is $40 per individual and includes a participation medal for each runner.
The top five finishing males and females will be awarded an additional place medal.
Pre-registration is recommended. After Sept. 14, an additional $5 per participant is added to the registration fee. Race day registration will be available from 6-6:30 a.m.
"Mercy is dedicated to transforming the health care experience and improving the quality of life for residents within our service area," Baker said. "By offering events such as the Mercy Day Run, we aim to encourage and support exercise and healthy lifestyle choices."
Proceeds will benefit the resurfacing of the community walking trail at Fort Scott Community College.
This year marks the 126th year of Mercy's presence in the Fort Scott community. Every Sept. 24, the Mercy Health Ministry recognizes the heritage and history of the founding Sisters. Across Mercy's four-state service area, Mercy Day honors the servitude and compassionate care of the Sisters who set the Mercy health care ministry in motion.
"Last year, participants were blessed perfect weather and an enthusiastic crowd," said Reta Baker, Mercy Hospital president. "We hope to deliver the same type of experience this year. We've even made some improvements based on suggestions from last year's athletes. For runners, precise timing and measurements are vital so we have added a chip timing system and more accurate measurement devises."
Mercy Day Run 2012 will offer participants two divisions: a non-certified 5K and a non-certified half marathon. All runners will receive a Mercy Day Run logoed T-shirt and refreshments after the race.
Online registration is available. Registration forms are also available at Mercy Health for Life and Buck Run Community Center. Each entrant must complete and sign a separate event waiver the morning of the event.
The 5K run fee is $25 per individual. Awards will be given for the top three finishers in each age group. The half marathon fee is $40 per individual and includes a participation medal for each runner.
The top five finishing males and females will be awarded an additional place medal.
Pre-registration is recommended. After Sept. 14, an additional $5 per participant is added to the registration fee. Race day registration will be available from 6-6:30 a.m.
"Mercy is dedicated to transforming the health care experience and improving the quality of life for residents within our service area," Baker said. "By offering events such as the Mercy Day Run, we aim to encourage and support exercise and healthy lifestyle choices."
Proceeds will benefit the resurfacing of the community walking trail at Fort Scott Community College.
This year marks the 126th year of Mercy's presence in the Fort Scott community. Every Sept. 24, the Mercy Health Ministry recognizes the heritage and history of the founding Sisters. Across Mercy's four-state service area, Mercy Day honors the servitude and compassionate care of the Sisters who set the Mercy health care ministry in motion.
2012年6月13日星期三
Shoe Distributors Have Their Day in Court
From luxury brands to toning hooves, stylish and low-cost shoe distributors are up against the law these days. Sketchers' (NYSE: SKX ) fitness tennis shoes have come under fire in a legal case claiming their health benefits are bogus, while the striking color women have come to know and love regarding their lavish Christian Louboutin heels now signifies a bloodbath the shoe distributor underwent in a court case this week.
SKX's athletic debacle made waves for the company when it came to investor confidence throughout recent months, as its toning soles were called out for making false and unsubstantiated claims in advertisements using celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Brooke Burke. While the tides are turning for the better since the hefty settlement , the shoe distributor is still dealing with backlash for promoting a product that its customers now feel duped by.
Skechers' shapely bottoms are not the only soles walking on thin ice, as privately-held shoe retailer Christian Louboutin has had to admit wrong-doings in court concerning its notorious red sole. Louboutin's spikey stems failed to crush the battle against Spanish clothing and accessories company Zara, a retailer that made use of the rosy underside for which Louboutin has become famous.
Here's where things get a little dicey. Christian Louboutin brought the court case on in 2008 following Zara's distribution of a $70 heel that boasted an apple-red sole. The Paris-based company believed it was the only shoe producer that had the right to push product with said bottom, as it is red in a specific context that only Louboutin's can use (according to the creator himself). Turns out, he was wrong.
While the end result of the case was not monetarily devastating to either company, Zara was able to trot away with not only $3,600, but allowance to place whatever color it so chooses on the underside of its shoes.
Christian Louboutin likely took the loss quite hard, as he has vigorously attempted to defend his high-end brand throughout the legal scuffle.
"Even in the food industry, Cadbury recently won a lawsuit against Nestlé for using purple packaging. All this proves that the colors play a part in a brand's identity. I'm not saying that red usually belongs to me - I repeat that this is about a precise red, used in a precise location," Louboutin recently told the Daily Mail.
Zara is not the first to come up against Louboutin's colorful conundrum, but will likely end up being the last new case the company takes to court over the infamous sole as the ruling was made final last week. As Mr. Louboutin heads back to court to appeal a similar case against Yves Saint Laurent, it appears that ladies will no longer have to pay top dollar to portray the elegance his red soles are made to emanate, as countless companies now have the right to bear their candy apple soles.
SKX's athletic debacle made waves for the company when it came to investor confidence throughout recent months, as its toning soles were called out for making false and unsubstantiated claims in advertisements using celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Brooke Burke. While the tides are turning for the better since the hefty settlement , the shoe distributor is still dealing with backlash for promoting a product that its customers now feel duped by.
Skechers' shapely bottoms are not the only soles walking on thin ice, as privately-held shoe retailer Christian Louboutin has had to admit wrong-doings in court concerning its notorious red sole. Louboutin's spikey stems failed to crush the battle against Spanish clothing and accessories company Zara, a retailer that made use of the rosy underside for which Louboutin has become famous.
Here's where things get a little dicey. Christian Louboutin brought the court case on in 2008 following Zara's distribution of a $70 heel that boasted an apple-red sole. The Paris-based company believed it was the only shoe producer that had the right to push product with said bottom, as it is red in a specific context that only Louboutin's can use (according to the creator himself). Turns out, he was wrong.
While the end result of the case was not monetarily devastating to either company, Zara was able to trot away with not only $3,600, but allowance to place whatever color it so chooses on the underside of its shoes.
Christian Louboutin likely took the loss quite hard, as he has vigorously attempted to defend his high-end brand throughout the legal scuffle.
"Even in the food industry, Cadbury recently won a lawsuit against Nestlé for using purple packaging. All this proves that the colors play a part in a brand's identity. I'm not saying that red usually belongs to me - I repeat that this is about a precise red, used in a precise location," Louboutin recently told the Daily Mail.
Zara is not the first to come up against Louboutin's colorful conundrum, but will likely end up being the last new case the company takes to court over the infamous sole as the ruling was made final last week. As Mr. Louboutin heads back to court to appeal a similar case against Yves Saint Laurent, it appears that ladies will no longer have to pay top dollar to portray the elegance his red soles are made to emanate, as countless companies now have the right to bear their candy apple soles.
2012年6月12日星期二
her shoes are Guiseppe Zanotti, her brooch Chanel
Wealthy shoppers like Liu are increasingly turning up their noses at labels they believe have been tainted by the common touch, seeking out understated, and exclusive, merchandise from the likes of Chanel or Hermes instead. That is becoming a big challenge for designers hoping to cash in on the world's fastest growing luxury market.
"I have two Louis Vuitton handbags but I no longer carry them although they are still in fashion," said Liu, a 31-year-old employee at a multinational cosmetics firm.
"I don't think the brand fits me any more."
More than a decade of strong economic growth has helped swell the disposable incomes of millions of Chinese, creating legions of men and women with a voracious appetite for status symbols regardless of the cost.
China's importance for firms such as Louis Vuitton's parent LVMH and Gucci's PPR SA is indisputable: last year, as Europe was mired in financial crisis and the U.S. economy faltered, mainland Chinese shoppers spent an estimated 111 billion yuan ($18 billion) on luxury goods, according to consultants Bain & Co.
China is the world's third biggest market for personal luxury goods, worth at least 160 billion yuan ($25 billion). In the next three years, it is expected to leapfrog over Japan and the United States to take the top spot, with the luxury segment expanding to 180 billion yuan ($28 billion).
As it grows, the market is also maturing, moving from so-called aspirational luxury, where bling is king, to what experts call absolute luxury: the desire to be seen as both wealthy and discerning.
"In the past, it was just a checklist. If you were one of the top five brands out of some magazine, you found that people in China just checked the checklist and bought according to the list," said Vincent Liu, partner at Boston Consulting Group.
"Going forward, people will be more selective. They know what and where and when to use what brands and products."
For sophisticated consumers like Liu, that means purchases such as a $2,000 Chanel mini bag and a Prada clutch. She's also eyeing a coral lambskin bag from Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its signature woven leather goods.
"The truly wealthy, the real millionaires, they will not want to buy LV Louis Vuitton or Gucci because they are too commonplace," said Shaun Rein, managing director, China Market Research Group. "Rich people are getting richer and they want exclusiveness and more self-indulgence."
OVER EXPOSED
China's luxury market is poised to grow 18 to 20 percent this year, steeply outperforming the single-digit forecasts for Europe, the Americas and Japan, according to Bain, explaining the rapid expansion of larger luxury firms such as LVMH.
For years, LV's Monogram "Speedy" tote, a dome-shaped classic favored by Audrey Hepburn, was one of the most desirable bags for Chinese women because it was a clear signal of having made it: the handbag costs double the $400 an average Chinese worker earns a month.
The brand is LVMH's cash cow and revenues are almost double those of Gucci, widely considered its closest competitor.
But as LVMH grew in China - there are currently about 38 Louis Vuitton stores there, including in remote areas such as the southern Guangxi autonomous region, compared to the 57 or so in Japan - it lost some of its cachet.
"In China, Louis Vuitton is seen as the brand that even your ai-yi, or domestic helper, can afford," said a retail consultant who declined to be named in order to be candid.
When asked to comment, LVMH told Reuters via email it expected to "gain a brand new lead on the market" via a new store set to open next month in Shanghai's swanky Plaza 66 mall. "The Plaza 66 will confirm Vuitton as the trendsetting brand in China," the email said.
Gucci did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
LV remains one of China's most popular labels - a recent survey by a strategists Digital Luxury Group put it at the top of web searches by consumers.
But brands such as Chanel and Hermes are catching up fast.
A recent study by consultants Bain shows twice as many Chinese now covet Hermes, creators of the iconic Birkin and Kelly handbags, and the brand is the third most likely to be purchased after Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
"Some prefer Hermes because our products are more subtle and not over exposed," the brand's China president, Leo Liu, told Reuters in an emailed statement.
SOME LIKE IT HAUTE
For Gao Jie, 27, a public relations employee who routinely buys luxury goods, Hermes is the ultimate status symbol: their bags are handmade, come in limited quantities, cost anything between $9,000 to $150,000 and are generally not within the reach of the general public.
Gao says this year she aims to buy a brightly colored Kelly Candy handbag that costs at least four times her monthly salary of 20,000 yuan ($3,100).
"There are some things that are classic by design and widely recognized by the market. I really hope to one day be able to own all these classic designs," said Gao, who regularly sets aside some of her salary, and income from investing in stocks, to buy shoes and bags.
To attract shoppers like Gao, LVMH and other larger luxury brands are trying to strike the difficult balance between exclusivity and popularity to remain profitable.
"I have two Louis Vuitton handbags but I no longer carry them although they are still in fashion," said Liu, a 31-year-old employee at a multinational cosmetics firm.
"I don't think the brand fits me any more."
More than a decade of strong economic growth has helped swell the disposable incomes of millions of Chinese, creating legions of men and women with a voracious appetite for status symbols regardless of the cost.
China's importance for firms such as Louis Vuitton's parent LVMH and Gucci's PPR SA is indisputable: last year, as Europe was mired in financial crisis and the U.S. economy faltered, mainland Chinese shoppers spent an estimated 111 billion yuan ($18 billion) on luxury goods, according to consultants Bain & Co.
China is the world's third biggest market for personal luxury goods, worth at least 160 billion yuan ($25 billion). In the next three years, it is expected to leapfrog over Japan and the United States to take the top spot, with the luxury segment expanding to 180 billion yuan ($28 billion).
As it grows, the market is also maturing, moving from so-called aspirational luxury, where bling is king, to what experts call absolute luxury: the desire to be seen as both wealthy and discerning.
"In the past, it was just a checklist. If you were one of the top five brands out of some magazine, you found that people in China just checked the checklist and bought according to the list," said Vincent Liu, partner at Boston Consulting Group.
"Going forward, people will be more selective. They know what and where and when to use what brands and products."
For sophisticated consumers like Liu, that means purchases such as a $2,000 Chanel mini bag and a Prada clutch. She's also eyeing a coral lambskin bag from Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its signature woven leather goods.
"The truly wealthy, the real millionaires, they will not want to buy LV Louis Vuitton or Gucci because they are too commonplace," said Shaun Rein, managing director, China Market Research Group. "Rich people are getting richer and they want exclusiveness and more self-indulgence."
OVER EXPOSED
China's luxury market is poised to grow 18 to 20 percent this year, steeply outperforming the single-digit forecasts for Europe, the Americas and Japan, according to Bain, explaining the rapid expansion of larger luxury firms such as LVMH.
For years, LV's Monogram "Speedy" tote, a dome-shaped classic favored by Audrey Hepburn, was one of the most desirable bags for Chinese women because it was a clear signal of having made it: the handbag costs double the $400 an average Chinese worker earns a month.
The brand is LVMH's cash cow and revenues are almost double those of Gucci, widely considered its closest competitor.
But as LVMH grew in China - there are currently about 38 Louis Vuitton stores there, including in remote areas such as the southern Guangxi autonomous region, compared to the 57 or so in Japan - it lost some of its cachet.
"In China, Louis Vuitton is seen as the brand that even your ai-yi, or domestic helper, can afford," said a retail consultant who declined to be named in order to be candid.
When asked to comment, LVMH told Reuters via email it expected to "gain a brand new lead on the market" via a new store set to open next month in Shanghai's swanky Plaza 66 mall. "The Plaza 66 will confirm Vuitton as the trendsetting brand in China," the email said.
Gucci did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
LV remains one of China's most popular labels - a recent survey by a strategists Digital Luxury Group put it at the top of web searches by consumers.
But brands such as Chanel and Hermes are catching up fast.
A recent study by consultants Bain shows twice as many Chinese now covet Hermes, creators of the iconic Birkin and Kelly handbags, and the brand is the third most likely to be purchased after Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
"Some prefer Hermes because our products are more subtle and not over exposed," the brand's China president, Leo Liu, told Reuters in an emailed statement.
SOME LIKE IT HAUTE
For Gao Jie, 27, a public relations employee who routinely buys luxury goods, Hermes is the ultimate status symbol: their bags are handmade, come in limited quantities, cost anything between $9,000 to $150,000 and are generally not within the reach of the general public.
Gao says this year she aims to buy a brightly colored Kelly Candy handbag that costs at least four times her monthly salary of 20,000 yuan ($3,100).
"There are some things that are classic by design and widely recognized by the market. I really hope to one day be able to own all these classic designs," said Gao, who regularly sets aside some of her salary, and income from investing in stocks, to buy shoes and bags.
To attract shoppers like Gao, LVMH and other larger luxury brands are trying to strike the difficult balance between exclusivity and popularity to remain profitable.
2012年6月11日星期一
With regard to Duchess of Cambridge
The Duchess of Cambridge has found a staunch defender for her shoe selection and fashion in general, in the world-renowned shoe designer Christian Louboutin. He has gone so far as to praise Kate Middleton for her chic sense of style. Now that coming from the shoe maestro, as any fashion aficionado will aver, is high praise indeed.
Recently designer Nicholas Kirkwood criticized Duchess Kate for playing it safe in her fashion choices. Well, Kate Middleton can now rest assured as Louboutin, notorious for his candidness, has himself given the seal of approval. The shoe genius insists Prince William’s wife “doesn’t need advice” from the fashion elite.
While a string of celebrities from Jennifer Lopez to Coleen Rooney to Victoria Beckham swear by Louboutin’s red-soled shoes, Louboutin is clear, Duchess Kate does not really need high fashion to make her remarkable. Christian Louboutin told vogue.co.uk. “She has all the choice in the world She’s a very elegant young woman. I wouldn’t give her any adviceshe doesn’t need it, let her choose for herself. She’s a big girl now,” he opines.
Kate has garnered plaudits globally for her modern style and has even transformed hitherto unknown brands into household names. Due to Duchess Kate’s charisma nick-named ‘Duchess Effect’ the UK economy has got a stunning 2 billion boost with high street brands like Reiss, LK Bennett and Zara, with even a George at Asda having reaped the benefits of Catherine’s outfit choices.
Louboutin’s compliment comes against the backdrop of his recent blistering attack against women who find it difficult to carry off his skyscraper heels. Earlier, the designer had controversially told Grazia Magazine that it didn’t really matter to him if women were in pain when they wore his shoes but that they should look elegant. “If you can’t walk in them, then don’t wear them,” was his typically forthright advice.
Responding to that sensational quote of his, in his latest interview with Vogue, Louboutin defending himself says he has been misquoted as far as his designs were concerned. Clarifying his stand, the shoe-king says he does not go out of his way to create ''painful'' shoes; just that he values sexiness, design and beauty much above comfort.
“People say I am the king of painful shoes. I don’t want to create painful shoes, but it is not my job to create something comfortable. I try to make high heels as comfortable as they can be, but my priority is design, beauty and sexiness.” He goes on to add: “I’m not against them, but comfort is not my focus.”
This year, Christian Louboutin is celebrating his two decades in fashion. He is presently the subject of an extensive retrospective exhibition at London's Design Museum According to the designer, the highpoint of his career was creating the shoes which were worn at the finale of Yves Saint Laurent's final couture show. The only time the late designer ever collaborated with someone else.
With regard to Duchess of Cambridge, who has till date not worn his shoes, her admirers will surely love to see their ‘fashion icon’ wearing one of Louboutin creations in the near future. This is something the shoe maestro may be eagerly looking forward to, now that he has blessed her fashion choices.
Recently designer Nicholas Kirkwood criticized Duchess Kate for playing it safe in her fashion choices. Well, Kate Middleton can now rest assured as Louboutin, notorious for his candidness, has himself given the seal of approval. The shoe genius insists Prince William’s wife “doesn’t need advice” from the fashion elite.
While a string of celebrities from Jennifer Lopez to Coleen Rooney to Victoria Beckham swear by Louboutin’s red-soled shoes, Louboutin is clear, Duchess Kate does not really need high fashion to make her remarkable. Christian Louboutin told vogue.co.uk. “She has all the choice in the world She’s a very elegant young woman. I wouldn’t give her any adviceshe doesn’t need it, let her choose for herself. She’s a big girl now,” he opines.
Kate has garnered plaudits globally for her modern style and has even transformed hitherto unknown brands into household names. Due to Duchess Kate’s charisma nick-named ‘Duchess Effect’ the UK economy has got a stunning 2 billion boost with high street brands like Reiss, LK Bennett and Zara, with even a George at Asda having reaped the benefits of Catherine’s outfit choices.
Louboutin’s compliment comes against the backdrop of his recent blistering attack against women who find it difficult to carry off his skyscraper heels. Earlier, the designer had controversially told Grazia Magazine that it didn’t really matter to him if women were in pain when they wore his shoes but that they should look elegant. “If you can’t walk in them, then don’t wear them,” was his typically forthright advice.
Responding to that sensational quote of his, in his latest interview with Vogue, Louboutin defending himself says he has been misquoted as far as his designs were concerned. Clarifying his stand, the shoe-king says he does not go out of his way to create ''painful'' shoes; just that he values sexiness, design and beauty much above comfort.
“People say I am the king of painful shoes. I don’t want to create painful shoes, but it is not my job to create something comfortable. I try to make high heels as comfortable as they can be, but my priority is design, beauty and sexiness.” He goes on to add: “I’m not against them, but comfort is not my focus.”
This year, Christian Louboutin is celebrating his two decades in fashion. He is presently the subject of an extensive retrospective exhibition at London's Design Museum According to the designer, the highpoint of his career was creating the shoes which were worn at the finale of Yves Saint Laurent's final couture show. The only time the late designer ever collaborated with someone else.
With regard to Duchess of Cambridge, who has till date not worn his shoes, her admirers will surely love to see their ‘fashion icon’ wearing one of Louboutin creations in the near future. This is something the shoe maestro may be eagerly looking forward to, now that he has blessed her fashion choices.
订阅：
博文 (Atom)