Model collection

Karl Lagerfeld had shoes that lit up like blue torches and a robot Coco Chanel perched atop a replica of the pillar in Paris's Place Vendome. Dutch designer Iris van Herpen sent out a dress with a skirt resembling a scouring pad and Alexis Mabille's bride wore green.

It was Stephane Rolland who showed that gimmicks don't need to be gauche, creating a collection inspired by 80-year-old American modelling legend Carmen Dell'Orefice.

"What inspired this collection was an eternal grace, an alluring attitude, a formidable presence, that of the great Carmen Dell'Orefice," Rolland says. "As a muse, she is statuesque and appears as a long and mysterious figure, just like a stroke of black ink topped with a white cloud."

Fighting words

THERE were no gimmicks at Azzedine Alaia's intimate return to the couture calendar. Few editors were included in the audience at the Tunisian-born designer's first show since 2003; US Vogue's editor Anna Wintour was a notable absentee. It may have something to do with Alaia's recent comments in Virgine magazine about Wintour's sense of style.

"When I see how she is dressed, I don't believe in her tastes one second," Alaia said. "Anyway, who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one. Take Diana Vreeland, she is remembered because she was so chic."

Fortunately, Alaia's collection was more restrained than his words, earning the praise of Style.com's Tim Blanks.

"His focus was as sharp as the laser cutting that created the latticed velvet on his eveningwear," Blanks said.

"It felt like the designer was exploring all the possibilities of a tightly edited handful of ideas, starting with one that was newest for long-time fans: the coat-dress."

Little and large

FROM little things big things are growing for the Eveden underwear group, which is targeting petite Australian women.

Eveden already services a curvy clientele with the Elomi range but recently acquired the French label Huit, which specialises in smaller briefs and bras.

"We hear a lot about women with D cups and bigger but there is a big market for well-made lingerie that starts at an A cup," says Janine Fisk, general manager of Eveden Australia.

"Huit has been popular in Europe for years. They were one of the first labels to create bras with air cushions.

"They also feature briefs that enhance the shape of women lucky enough to have a small bottom. I expect a great take-up in Australia."

British company Eveden set up an Australian branch 3 1/2years ago, following the overseas success of Australian brands such as Elle Macpherson and Collette Dinnigan.

"The company's thinking was that if Australians could sell their underwear to them, they could do the same thing," Fisk says.

In a crowded market Eveden is already having an effect on underwear drawers across the country, with about 350 stockists. From August 1, Myer will stock Elomi and the premium Fauve brand, which goes from a B to a GG.

"We're experiencing 20 per cent growth in the Australian market a year," Fisk says.

To improve its position in the market Eveden started the financial year by reducing the prices of many of its bras by $5. Bras in the Huit range start at $79.95 with briefs starting at $44.95.

"Boutiques that sell our products are doing it tough at the moment and this was our way to get people shopping," Fisk says.

"The strong Australian dollar also helps. It's the little things that make a difference."