The Sea, The Sea. This season the journey of the Vuitton traveller, always one both literal and metaphorical, takes to the water.
“Diana Vreeland said that water was ‘God’s tranquilizer.’ She also said she thought the idea of the freedom of surfing was wonderful. That was one of the starting points for the collection,” explains Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton Men’s Style Director, working under the Artistic Direction of Marc Jacobs. “I was also looking at different kinds of men I related to this style – the Vuitton customer is not just one kind of man – and that spanned people from Yves Carcelle with his love of yachting to the idea of sailing clothes worn by men in both a street and pop sense.”
In this way, what can be thought of as the traditional nautical theme – that classic cliché of fashion – is given new meaning and life by being playfully put through the filter of pop culture; made sporting through technical sailing wear; made adventurous through the myth of the high seas; made rebellious through the language of surf culture; made languid and insouciant through a Southern French casual finesse. Ultimately all is made sophisticated in the collection by a thoroughly thoughtful and qualitative approach to each aspect.
Often the silhouette is relaxed, easy and utilitarian yet still with a concentration on lightness and suppleness of fabrication (even with extra soft crocodile). There is particular innovation in the outerwear displayed through contemporary techniques such as laser cutting that give garments a particular fluidity. It is contrasted with the tailored silhouettes utilizing techniques that still stress lightness in construction together with a fluidity of line. A sense of freedom and summer is one that permeates the collection in its entirety and is also displayed in its simple colour palette concentrating on navy and white with flashes of yellow and fluorescents. An element of holiday and beach debris playfully litters the accesorisation of the collection; ring-pulls made precious in gold, silver and mother-of-pearl with coral, anchor and seahorse motifs adding another playful twist.
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